{"id":61294,"date":"2023-10-31T09:00:14","date_gmt":"2023-10-30T22:00:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/?p=61294"},"modified":"2023-10-30T22:50:16","modified_gmt":"2023-10-30T11:50:16","slug":"kyoto-report-2023-6","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/?p=61294","title":{"rendered":"Kyoto Report 2023 \u2013 6"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>This Tuesday report will provide some insights into life for a westerner (me) who is working for several months at Kyoto University in Japan.<br \/>\n<!--more--><\/p>\n<h2>Japanese carpentry<\/h2>\n<p>Asian carpentry in general and Japanese carpentry in particular is a work of art.<\/p>\n<p>I love stopping near building sites while I am out on my bike to study the meticulous work that is involved in building a house in Kyoto.<\/p>\n<p>I recently had first-hand experience with house building in Australia and while the construction company was first class in every way, the Japanese carpenters go to the next level.<\/p>\n<p>The joint work is complex and very accurate.<\/p>\n<p>They build their frames from ground up rather than truck them in pre-built.<\/p>\n<p>This photo is from a house building site in the West of Kyoto.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Carpentry_October-28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Carpentry_October-28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61295\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Carpentry_October-28_2023.png 600w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Carpentry_October-28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<h2>Unintended consequences of the good variety<\/h2>\n<p>Kyoto is organised on a rectangular grid and that defines the main roads.<\/p>\n<p>But in between the main roads there is a myriad of small winding streets, drains, staircases that I cruise down on my bike, instead of using the main roads.<\/p>\n<p>And as a consequence, I periodically stumble across gems that I didn&#8217;t expect to find.<\/p>\n<p>Last weekend, we rode all the way across town from the East of Kyoto, where we live to the Western fringe.<\/p>\n<p>Our aim was to go to the Zen temple &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ry%C5%8Dan-ji\">Ry\u014dan-ji<\/a> &#8211; which is located in the north-west of the city.<\/p>\n<p>The feature of the temple is the famous &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Japanese_dry_garden\">Japanese dtry garden<\/a> (\u67af\u5c71\u6c34 or karenansui) &#8211; where a scaled-down version of some landscape is captured in a confined space, in this context a rectangular (25m x 10m) space enclosed on two sides by a clay wall that was boiled in oil and buildings on the other two sides.<\/p>\n<p>Over time, the oil has leeched out of the clay and in the process has created a very distinctive visual pattern, which, in itself, is worth going to see.<\/p>\n<p>The garden contains 15 rocks of different sizes and shapes carefully arranged in a five grouped piles with a small surround of living moss embedded in a large rectangular area of white pebbles that are carefully raked in to various patterns.<\/p>\n<p>A visitor sits on a terrace abutting one of the longer sides and studies the garden.<\/p>\n<p>It is austere but somehow contemplative.<\/p>\n<p>I have read many accounts of this garden &#8211; yes, I study gardens in my spare time &#8211; and there have been countless attempts to attribute &#8216;meaning&#8217; to what we behold.<\/p>\n<p>One commentator though, I think, has it down correctly (translation from the 2003 book by  G\u00fcnter Nitschke &#8216;Le jardin japonais : angle droit et forme naturelle&#8217;):<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>\nThe garden at Ry\u014dan-ji does not symbolize anything, or more precisely, to avoid any misunderstanding, the garden of Ry\u014dan-ji does not symbolize, nor does it have the value of reproducing a natural beauty that one can find in the real or mythical world. I consider it to be an abstract composition of &#8216;natural&#8217; objects in space, a composition whose function is to incite meditation.\n<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Anyway, here is one part of the rock garden:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dry_Garden_October_28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dry_Garden_October_28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61303\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dry_Garden_October_28_2023.png 450w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dry_Garden_October_28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p>But sometime after you exit the actual shrine and start to wander through the gardens, the unintended consequence emerges.<\/p>\n<p>There is no reference to this place on the official guide you pick up at the entrance.<\/p>\n<p>But through a little arbour, embedded in the most beautiful garden is smaller temple &#8211; \u9f8d\u5b89\u5bfa \u897f\u6e90\u9662 (the Ryoanji Saigen-in Temple) &#8211; which houses a delightful vegan restaurant &#8211; Ryoanji Yudofu &#8211; (or that serves the most glorious lunches at really reasonable prices.<\/p>\n<p>As you approach the building you see it through the garden.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_2_October_28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_2_October_28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61302\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_2_October_28_2023.png 450w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_2_October_28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p>The cafe name refers to its only dish &#8211; \u6e6f\u8c46\u8150 or yudofu &#8211; which is hot boiled tofu (soft) mixed in a broth of seven herbs.<\/p>\n<p>It comes with a dipping sauce of soy and ginger, plus rice and some pickles.<\/p>\n<p>This is what the served table looks like:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Table_October_28_2023.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Table_October_28_2023.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"902\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61307\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Table_October_28_2023.jpg 600w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Table_October_28_2023-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p>And this is what you see while having lunch.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_1_October_28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_1_October_28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61306\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_1_October_28_2023.png 450w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_1_October_28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_October_28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_October_28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61305\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_October_28_2023.png 450w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Vegan_Cafe_October_28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p>While vegan food is not difficult to find in Kyoto having it served in this sort of environment (which is Covid safe and peaceful) is rare.<\/p>\n<p>Most of the vegan cafes are small and crowded and since Covid I have avoided them.<\/p>\n<p>We were bemoaning earlier in the day that we would love to find a nice vegan cafe and whether we should risk going to the ones we know from previous periods here.<\/p>\n<p>And then out of the forest, this gem appeared.<\/p>\n<p>That is what happens a lot in Kyoto if you walk or ride around outside of the main tourist areas.<\/p>\n<p>In the little back streets, there are gems to be found.<\/p>\n<p>And a distinctive feature of the city is that industry, small manufacturing etc, homes, and shops are all mixed in each locality, rather than suburbs being segmented by use.<\/p>\n<h2>I love how Kyoto has more bike parks at shopping centres than car parks<\/h2>\n<p>I sometimes ride along the Kamo river out north to the Kitaoji Shopping Centre where Muji is located.<\/p>\n<p>It sells all manner of things at really reasonable prices &#8211; great for shirts when you haven&#8217;t packed enough!<\/p>\n<p>Underneath the shopping complex, which in Australia is usually reserved for car parking, you find the bike park.<\/p>\n<p>Kyoto is such a bike friendly place.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Kitaoji_Bike_Park_October_28_2023.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Kitaoji_Bike_Park_October_28_2023.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-61304\" srcset=\"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Kitaoji_Bike_Park_October_28_2023.png 450w, https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Kitaoji_Bike_Park_October_28_2023-225x300.png 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both;\"><\/div>\n<p>Another week in Kyoto.<\/p>\n<p>Next week I will report on how to get lost on Mt Daimonji and how to avoid it &#8211; hint: don&#8217;t ask locals who sport latest-state-of-art mapping apps!<\/p>\n<p>That is enough for today!<\/p>\n<p>(c) Copyright 2023 William Mitchell. All Rights Reserved. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This Tuesday report will provide some insights into life for a westerner (me) who is working for several months at Kyoto University in Japan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[31],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61294","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-japan","entry","no-media"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61294","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=61294"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61294\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=61294"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=61294"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/billmitchell.org\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=61294"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}